My Life in Azerbaijan - Cold but I am warm

October 27, 2009

Yesterday, the weather took a 360 degree change. The day before, the temperature was at the 80s and suddenly, the wind picked up at night. Next morning, it rained and the temperature dropped to about 50 degree. Here in the small town of Jorat, heating system does not exist. The only way to keep warm is to wear layers and layers of clothing. Our town is next to the Caspian Sea, the wind brings in moisture from the Sea and it makes the temperature feel much colder than it actually is. I do not have an extra oz of fat in my body to keep myself warm so I have to dress like an Eskimo, drink lots of Isti Cay (hot tea) before leaving for school.

It usually takes me less than 10 minutes to walk to school, but that morning, the wind was really blowing hard. Even my host mother’s chickens refused to come out from their little hut to be fed. The birds were not singing that morning either. The wind was making everything miserable. On my way to school, I was nearly being blown off from the side walk. But when I reached the school, everything changed. I felt warm and happy right away.

By the entrance of my school, usually there are five NeNe(s) (grandmothers) sitting by the door to greet the school children. When I first arrived at the school in October, they all stared at me with a stone face. By nature, I am a very cheerful person, so I gave them a big Salam (greetings) and of course, no one understood my Azerbaijani. So I approached the oldest one, (in Azerbaijan, the oldest person usually receives the most respect) I held her hands and said Salam again to her. This time, she understood and gave me a big, big smile. After that morning, they all remember me and give me a cheerful greetings everyday.

That morning, as soon as they saw me walking in the wind, they all came out to the window and greeted me with some Azeri words which I could not understand. When I reached them, I was surrounded by them and they touched my hands, my shoulders and pull me inside. Since that day, I know I have five new NeNes who love me in Azerbaijan.

My Life in Azerbaijan - My famous PC Site Mate

October 25, 2009

Everyone is concerned about my health. This morning, my host sister takes me and my site mate Vivian to the Bazaar. I can buy whatever I want. She insists to buy me some bananas. I love banana and I do miss it, but it is very expense here in Azerbaijan. Banana has to be imported to this country. Average Azerbaijani cannot afford to buy banana. I feel bad that my host family has to spend extra money to get me the banana.

After we get home, Vivian wants to cook me lunch. As we start talking about our past, Vivian begins to open up and reveals more secret about herself. Back in the US, Vivian was a famous cook. Her name was mentioned twice in the New York Times. She used to have her own Catering business in Dallas Texas. Her famous clients include Prince of Saudi Arabia, Lara Bush, Macy store, Henry Kissinger and Nancy Reagan. She was named as one of the best Caterers in the US by the New York Times. When she catered the party for Nancy Reagan, she had the secret service in her kitchen for two weeks!

I am very impressed about her story. I am more impressed that she decided to come here in Azerbaijan and wanted to help the people here. Vivian and I get along very well. We spend more and more time together studying, chatting, and cooking. Life in this poor village of Azerbaijan begins to seem getting better everyday. This afternoon, she makes me a very simple vegetables dish. It is so delicious and healthy. Few weeks ago, she also made an apple pie for Kim, her host family and me. It was absolutely delicious! I ask her to start giving me cooking lessons, perhaps when I return to the US, I can cook for “J” and if he likes my cooking, maybe I can keep him for good.

Life has its way to amaze me, my life here in Azerbaijan was harsh and difficult at one point, but now I begin to see the silver lining. I like it here.

My life in Azerbaijan - The beauty of Azerbaijan

October 24, 2009

Today is a Culture Day, Peace Corps takes us to visit Azerbaijan ancient site called Qobustan. The place is located south of Baku along the Caspian Sea. Qobustan is full of Petrography and cave painting. According to the historical museum, this place is more than 5,000 years old. Once upon a time, this place was very green and full of human activities.

I have not done any hiking since I arrived here in Azerbaijan. As soon as we arrive at Qubostan, I feel alive. The mountain air, the hiking trail and the historical ancient ruins remind me the place I love: the Utah Desert. There are many human images, animal figures and various hunting weapons carved high up on the rock walls. In the afternoon, we move to another place which also reminds me another place in the US: the Yellow Stone National Park. There are lots of mud volcanoes.

Another interesting fact about Azerbaijan is: this country is rich with oil. Some places, the oil is so pure that it does not even require any refining process. As soon as we enter to this “Park” (in Azerbaijan, the government has not yet set up any national park to protect its nature beauty), there is a hole on the ground which is covered with black shinning oil. The oil actually oozes out from underground to the surface. One of our PCV dips her figure to the hole and let us smell the oil. If this place exists in the US, it would have been destroyed.

There are many beautiful places that exist in Azerbaijan. Some of those places are still less known by the outside world. Because of that, they remain their natural beauty and have not yet been destroyed by human intervention. I am grateful that I am one of those handful people who can see those beauties before they are gone. On the other hand, if more people know about those places and come to Azerbaijan, it will bring in significant tourist income to the country and perhaps the life of Azerbaijani will be improved. I think the future of Azerbaijan lies on its people and only they have the right to decide what is best for their country.

My Life in Azerbaijan - Doctor's order

October 23, 2009
Since I came back from Ujar, some people from my group noticed that I am getting too thin. My clothing all seems too big. My pants no longer fit; my shirts are falling off my shoulders. I look at myself in the mirror and see my face becoming thinner. Even my host mother notices it after I returned from the Ujar. My site mate Carol is concerned so she tells our LCF. (LCF is responsible for our well being during the training) Therefore, today, my PST pays a family visit to my host mother. She wants to find out why I continue to lose weight.

I have not been feeling well and gotten sick a few days since I arrived in Azerbaijan. My stomach does not agree with the water and foods here. In addition, the food here is just lack of variety. I am missing lots of vegetables and fiber on my diet. My host family is not feeding me enough good and nutritious foods, plus I am not crazy about the Azerbaijan cooking. It is too oily. Everyday, I go to school only with 2 small potatoes, a cucumber and an apple. Dinner, I eat very little if I do not like the food.

I am kind of embarrassed about the whole situation. My culture taught me to be humble when living with others. I should not demand for extra treatment while I am staying in other people’s home. If I do not like their foods, then I should just be hungry. I think that is how I have been dealing with my situation for the past few weeks. As a result, I lost more and more weight.

My host sister and I work out a plan. Monday, we will go shopping together and I will buy all the foods that I want. I can either do my own cooking or continue eat with the host family. I hope this plan will work, or I will end up less than 90 lbs by the end of the training.

My Life in Azerbaijan - Quitting the PC

October 16, 2009 – Quiting the Peace Corps

Well, it is official. Two people from our group decided to quit. Both claimed it was because of their health problem. It is only the 2nd week of the training, some people already think about leaving. Some PSTs predicate, by the end of the training, there will be at least four more people exiting.

For whatever reason these individuals decide to quit, I understand their decision. Not many people can be happy to live the kind of life here in Azerbaijan, especially those who are so used to the material world and the comfortable lifestyle back home. Here in Azerbaijan, most of the towns and villages are poor. Every where you see, there are broken buildings, unpaved roads, dirty alleys, dusty roads and ugly buses, not to mention smelly toilets and dreadful neighborhoods. There are no street lights; water has to be boiled for drinking, electricity is not reliable and taking a hot shower may require lot of effort. Most of the stores only carry minimum supplies. The luxury things do not exist here in this small town of Jorat or any town in Azerbaijan except in the Capital - Baku. Try not to get sick too because there is not even one hospital or clinic around here in town.

Some days, life can be very lonely here. When you miss your family, friends and the loved one back home; it is quite difficult to carry on. In order to continue serving the Peace Corps, it requires not just a few simple adjustments as Peace Corps suggested, but a lot more. Whatever the dedication and commitment you have few months ago before leaving for Azerbaijan, consider to multiple 10, 20 or even 100 times more. If you are not happy now during the training, you are going to be even unhappier when the real Peace Corps life begins. For those PCTs who already thinking about leaving Peace Corps, I urge them to end their misery now. Peace Corps definitely is not for everyone.

My Life in Azerbaijan - Lost in Azerbaijan

Today is Sunday, my site mate Vivian and I decide to take an hour walk along the Caspian Sea. We plan to meet at her host family at 10:00am. I am still not familiar with the neighborhood, so I leave my host family earlier so to give myself enough time to look for her house. The night before, I got the instruction from other PCV how to get to Vivian’s house, so I thought I remember.

My neighborhood has many small alleys and most of the roads are in a very bad condition. There are no street names, the address of all the houses are very confusing. The only way to find the way around is either to draw a very detailed map or to memorize all the landmarks. I am very bad in direction. I even got lost in Queens back home. The first week with my host family, I already got lost three times walking from the school to my host family. I know it is going to be an adventure to find Vivian house.

I turn left from my host family home and walk toward the Caspian Sea as instructed. Five minutes later, I find myself standing in front of a ruin building. The surrounding is totally unfamiliar to me. I try to find my way back to my host family, but all the alleys look the same. I cannot remember which alley belongs to my host family. Now I am completely LOST. I only know a few words of Azerbaijani and I do not even know my host family’s address. If I call my host sister to get me, I cannot even tell her where I am. Finally, I call Kim, the PCV who gave me the instruction last night.

Chi “ Kim, I am lost”
Kim: “Where are you?”
Chi “Don’t know, I am scared”
Kim: “Can you tell me some of the landmarks?”
Chi:”I stand in front of a ruin building and next to it, is a long old building look like a dormitory”
Kim: “What else?”
Chi: “Don’t really know?”
Kim: “Try to walk back to a paved road and I will come get you”
Chi: “I tried, I cannot find the paved road either?”
Kim: “ok, I will try to find you”

Five minutes later, Kim shows up at the end of the alley. I feel so STUPID! Well this is going to be part of my life in Azerbaijan :)

My Life with Peace Corps - Hunting for Internet

We have not had an internet connection since Monday, which is four days ago. Everyone is eager to e-mail home. During the week, our classes occupy most of our time. We have language training since 9:00am and the class does not end until 5:00pm or 6:00pm. After dinner, we still have to study to keep up with our lessons. By the end of the week, we are all very tired. We miss our families and friends back home.

During the week some PCVs found out the nearest internet café and they went out at night to check out the location. I am a single girl, the Azeri culture does not allow single woman wondering around at night alone. My street has no street light, after dark it is very dark and I have not been allowed by my host family to venture out at night. This is another disadvantage living with a host family. Our freedom is restricted. Saturday afternoon after school, my cluster (CED group) decided to take a marsrutka (minibus) and go to town for a little fun. As soon as we found out the internet location, we all buried ourselves in the café.

It cost 0.20 – 0.40 AZN (US$0.25-$0.50) for 30 minutes. It seems cheap but if you only have 17 AZN per week as allowance, it does not seem cheap after all. I am an accountant and I know how to budget my allowance to live through the week. I will keep my spending into minimum in other areas, but internet access is important to me, no matter how expensive it is.

Finally, I sent out all my e-mails. Life seems lonely and hard right now in Azerbaijan but knowing that I have my strong supports from friends and family back home, I feel much better.