My Life in Azerbaijan - First Adventure - Part 2: Hiking

June 29, 2010
Lahic is a small village located in the center of Azerbaijan, population only 2,000. It is buried deep in the southern slops of Caucasus Mountains. Due to its natural beauty, Lahic perhaps is the most visited village by foreigners in Azerbaijan. When Vivian and I walk on the main street, we do not gather much attention or stares as we normally received in our towns. I am happy about that.

The entire village only has one main street which however, connects to labyrinth of side allies. This “V” shape cobblestone street still has its charm. It is the world oldest drainage system. The warm weather has melted the snow from the upper mountain. Water carrying debris keeps rushing down to this “V” shape channel and eventually joins the main river below us.

As we climb further up to the village, we begin to see more locals re-open their shops after their midday rest. The town was originally a copper mining hub, but that has died down and gradually developed into a craft center. Vivian and I wonder through many copper and brass shops which now sustain the village's economy. I wish my budget was not so tight that I could purchase a few items to help the locals. I saw a beautiful bowl that I think Wood and Jomi would love to have in their home. These are my dearest friends from New York. When I need to raise money for my project, I contacted them. Without any hesitation, they wired me the money within a week. They are really “a friend in need”.

When we reach the top of the hill, it is the end of the cobblestone road. Few hundred feet further is the main river. Across from the river is a steep hill. Beyond that steep hill is a vast green field dotted with many sheep, cows, horses and a farm house. By the end of the field is the ancient shepherd’s track leading to the top of the mountain. Judging from my hiking experience, it will take me less than an hour to scale up to the top. Vivian, however, does not agree with me, so I convince her to stay and I will go alone. I set my turn around time and ask her to watch me climbing up to the top. She agrees.

My Life in Azerbaijan - First Adventure - Part 1: Escape

June 26, 2010

Last week of June, Vivian and I were supposed to travel to Neftchala for the summer camp helping other PCVs. The area is famous for its sturgeon fish which produces the expensive Caviar. (Caspian Sea produces 90% of the world caviar!) Due to various reasons, we decided to change plan and go on our adventure: The Lahic Odyssey. We are glad we did it, and we had the most amusing experience during the two days stay in this small remote village of Azerbaijan.

I heard about Lahic many times from other PCV hikers. The place is exceptionally beautiful. It is one of Azerbaijan’s most picturesque villages. We take a 16-passagers minibus from the Ismayilli (nearest town) to get there. A 45-minutes bumpy ride zip zaps through many spectacular mountain cliffs. 500 feet vertical drop below is a ragging river snakes pass many gorges with striking rocky pinnacles. While enjoying this incredibly scenic ride, I spot a shepherd’s track clinging terrifyingly to the other side of the valley. Excitement goes through my entire body instantly; it has been a very long time since I did my last hike. Would it be great if I can follow this route and get to the top to get my first view of the Caucasus Mountains. After all, I heard so much about this ancient mountain range since I was a little girl.

Our minibus crosses a small stream and begins to climb up to a hill. Five minutes later, we stop in front of a travel agency where an English-speaking man approaches us. Vivian was there three weeks ago and she knows the owner of the travel agency. Unfortunately, he is in Baku but his brother, who also speaks good English and offers us his assistance.

We check in our room which only costs us 8 azn a night. Our room is very rustic, has four small beds with two chairs, a naked light bulb dangling from the ceiling, simple but clean. Toilet and bathroom are outside. After having cheese and crackers for lunch, Vivian and I can not wait to go out for our adventure.

My Life in Azerbaijan - My Favorite Time of the Day

June 27, 2010

After a week of travel, I am home and back to my daily routine. I like structure, certain times of the day to do certain things. It makes my days and weeks go much faster. I like that.

Everyday except Wednesday, I go to work at the bank from 10am to 4pm, afterward, take a 1.5 hours walk by the sea, and an half hour yoga before dinner. After dinner, I read, do some Sudoku to exercise my brain, then bed time.

Saturday is cleaning day, I clean my apartment and do laundry in the morning. Afternoon go to Baku and have my Azeri lesson. Sunday is cooking day. I hardly do any cooking in New York, but in Azerbaijan, eating out is considered luxury so I learn to cook some simple foods. Yesterday, I made my own jam! Yes, cherry jam and it is ok. Today, I make egg plant spaghetti sauce. Vivian taught me how to keep a good spaghetti sauce. I add some eggplants to the sauce that I made few weeks ago and put in more fresh tomatoes and hot peppers, and it tastes fantastic! Last week, I even baked bread, but it needs a few minor adjustments.  Tonight, I think I am going to bake a cake.

Breakfast in the morning is the time I cherish the most. In New York, I never had time to enjoy breakfast. I rushed to work, often skipped breakfast or ate very unhealthy. Here in Azerbaijan, I have an hour to enjoy breakfast before heading to the bank. Usually, I have fruits, toast, egg, or oatmeal, and a cup of coffee, more importantly, some flowers (which I picked during my daily walk) as a touch of nature. I sit by the kitchen window; listen to the bird singing, breath the fresh morning air and prepare for a new day. I begin to sense the essence of simple life. Life that I may not experience again once I return to the States. Only 18 months remain, so soon….

My Life in Azerbaijan - A True Friend

June 18, 2010
Besides working for the bank, I also need to work on community project. I have been thinking to do a health project educating the youngsters to take a better care of their teeth. Oral hygiene is badly neglected in Azerbaijan; some of the kids do not even own a toothbrush. Like every project, you need money.

I mentioned my project to some friends in America and asked them for a small donation. Few individuals respond immediately and wired me the money within a week. I am grateful for their generosity, they are truly “a friend in need is a friend indeed”. Of course, there are some never respond or choose not to help. I am not angry with them. They have no obligation to help me, to help the children they never met, to give money to a country they never heard of.

However, if a person is willing to spend thousands of dollar on things that they do not even need but never thought of using some of those money helping others, it does not sound right, isn’t it? After all, “helping the poor” is one of the five pillars of wisdom, I expect my friends to have that decent human quality in them.

My Life in Azerbaijan - Andrew's story: To be young is to be stupid

June 4, 2010
Andrew called me for some advice. I am glad he called. It shows that he still considers me as his friend. Andrew was in trouble few months ago. He eloped with an Azeri girl. For three days, Peace Corps and the girl’s parents were going crazy searching for them. The story instantly became a huge gossip among all the PCVs. His saga was posted in the internet and some harsh and mocking statements were made about his affair.

I am always the last one who knew about all the gossips, so when I saw Andrew last month during the training in Baku, I was unaware of his affair. So that day I greeted him without any “condemnatory, judgmental or disapproval” look. After he voluntarily told me his wild story, I honestly gave him my opinion and words of advice. I think he needed that and appreciated that as well.

Some PCVs are still making fun of him. His story is still a hot topic during any Peace Corps gatherings. I wish they could stop and give him a break. Whatever Andrew did, he did it out of passion, and he did it out of, what we all once believed in. “LOVE”. Andrew is young, his action maybe “stupid” but not against nature. I still remember how I was when I was young. I did wild things, I did things that my parents considered VERY inappropriate or sinful. I did things spontaneously, acted according to how I felt at that moment and could careless what the consequences were. But THAT IS THE BEAUTY OF IT! When you are young, you are entitled to make mistake, you are entitled to act stupid, and you definitely have the right to be rebellion! Those stupidities, rebellions, idiocies, foolishness and sinful acts add color to our youth. They are part of growing up. After all, life is about living, not just surviving! Having a notorious past, for me is better than having a boring life.

Every so often I wish I still had the courage to act spontaneously and freely, like when I was 19, not worrying too much, analyzing too much, or planning too much. I wish I could just DO it. As I grow older, I seek for security and take precaution for every move I make. I guess it is the byproduct of getting old. Like I said before, there are times for everything; times to have fun, times to fall in love; times to grow old….I accept it wholeheartedly.

As for Andrew, so long as he takes responsibility for his action and he does, we should leave him alone.

My Life in Azerbaijan - Maybe Someday I will...

June 13, 2010
After two weeks, finally the dizziness and the bad cold went away. I am healthy again! It is great to feel alive, to feel I can go out and face the world once more. To be healthy is more important than anything else for me. There are just too many places where I have not yet be, too many mountains that I have not climbed, too many dreams I have not yet accomplished. Too many things to do with so little time…I definitely need a strong healthy body.

While I was sick, I finished the book “J” sent me. “A vagabond for Beauty”, a book about a young man at the age of twenty, Everett Ruess who vanished into thin air in the wilderness of Utah in 1934. What fascinates me about the story is Everett’s nearly sinful lust for natural beauty. His ability to see, articulate and portray the magnitude, color, and changing moods of nature. When I closed the book, I wish I was there with him; exploring, venturing and disappearing….

The Red Rock Canyon Country in Southern Utah by far is the place I love the most. The climb to Kilimanjaro, Everest base camp, ancient Tepui and Mt. Rainer was unforgettable, the crossing of Sahara desert was memorable as well, but nothing, noting like the delicate beauty and quietness of the canyon countries in southern Utah that give me so much satisfaction, joy, serenity and deep peace. If I have to choose a place to die and be buried, it has to be an unknown canyon in southern Utah where a small running stream is nearby, cottonwoods and willows are abundant and most importantly, surrounded by beautiful smooth cliff walls…..Maybe when I am home in 2011, I will work for a National Park in Utah, spend the rest of my life searching for that beautiful burial site…:)

“Adventure is for adventurous” so true.

My fellow AZ7 PCVs,
There is beauty in adventure, go seek adventure, go live your wanderlust, whether in Azerbaijan or Utah. Serving the Peace Corps is an adventure; don’t lose sight of that.

My Life in azerbaijan - It is a very close call

June 7, 2010
So far more than 10 PCVs from my group quitted the Peace Corps. At first I had a harsh opinion about their ET (Early Termination) but now I realize no one should judge them unless you experienced what they had gone through.

Since I moved in to my new “expensive” apartment, I have been dealing with situations that far more than I can bear. (Remember, I am a New York City girl, I know nothing about broken pipes or leaks) First it was the kitchen. The pipe under the kitchen sink was so old that it broke the first week when I moved in. Then it was the bathroom. It flooded every time I took a shower. I called my landlord. He came, said “Mən bilirəm” (understood) and left. Two months passed, my bathroom problem continues. To take a shower, I have to put a bucket under the shower head to catch all the water. As for the kitchen, I place many containers and towels right underneath the pipe just in case it breaks again when I am not home. I am constantly living with fear that anytime the pipe will burst. (No wonder my blood pressure is up and down)

On top of that, at least two days a week, there is no running water and it usually happens during evening hour when I am in the middle of cooking or washing. When the water finally runs again, I can smell the odor of raw sewage everywhere; outside my window, from the toilet, underneath the kitchen sink. I have to pour cups and cups of bleach to tone down the smell. Now, I store so many gallons of water in my apartment that they can bath the whole army!

For a while, my life seems to be bearable again until last night. First it was the two monster bugs, black, hairy, ugly bugs showing up in my bathroom floor. I had no idea where they came from. I switched on the light and here they were. I froze and closed the bathroom door immediately. I walked back and forth outside the bathroom and did not know what to do. Finally, I graphed a huge towel, opened the door and throw the towel on top of them. I graphed a cooking pen and banged on the floor. My whole body was shaking when I did the “killing”. To clean up the mess, I washed the towels in the kitchen sink. Then, the Pipe leaked, and water was everywhere in my kitchen. What a nightmare. I was exhausted when I climbed to bed. Midnight, my upstairs neighbor began to bang on the wall; maybe they saw more giant bugs!

This morning, I went to the bazaar, a man approached me and asked me the price for a full body massage. (my town has a Chinese Massage Center)

“Mən bankda işlayırman!” (I work for a bank!!!, you XXX! I wish I knew the word in Azeri)

You see, how much "XXXX"I have to put up with. That moment, I thought about quitting, but I took a deep breath and went home.